◈ 논문열람
| 자동패턴설계를 위한 40대 성인 남성 체형의 특징과 유형화 -이정화, 전정일, 최경미(325-336) | |||
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| 글쓴이 | 관리자 | 날 짜 | 2013-05-23 |
| 첨부파일 | 43-자동패턴.pdf | ||
| 내용 | 자동패턴설계를 위한 40대 성인 남성 체형의 특징과 유형화 Characteristics and Classification of Body Type of Adult Men in Their Forties for Automated Pattern Design 주저자 : 이정화 동서울대학교 산학협력단 LEE jung-hwa Industry Academic Cooperation Foundation, Dong-seoul College 공동저자 : 전정일 가천대학교 대학원 Jun jung-il Gachon University Graduate School 교신저자 : 최경미 동서울대학교 패션디자인과 Choi kueng-mi Dept. of Fashion Design, Dong-seoul College ____________________________________________________________ 논문요약 최근 패션시장에서는 경제력을 갖추고 소비의 주체로 떠오르고 있는 40대 남성에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있다. 비만도가 증가하고 배가 나오는 등 체형이 급격히 변화하는 40대 남성을 타깃으로 하는 기능성 의류제품은 높은 맞음새와 기능적 설계가 요구되어 체형의 특징요소를 기반으로 한 패턴설계가 요구된다. 이에 본 연구는 40대 남성들을 대상으로 요인분석을 통해 패턴설계에 영향을 미치는 체형의 특징을 분석하여 패턴변형요소를 추출하고, 체형특징을 기반으로 군집분석을 실시하여 각 체형특징에 준한 체형의 유형화를 통해 패턴 설계의 변형 범위를 제공하고자 한다. 연구대상은 40세에서 49세의 남성 435명(6차 사이즈 코리아 직접측정 데이터)이며 직접측정치 42항목, 키와 가슴둘레에 대한 지수치 33항목, 둘레항목 편평율 4항목에 대해서 분석하였다. 이상의 항목에 의한 요인분석과 군집분석을 통해 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 첫째, 직접측정치 항목에 대한 요인분석 결과 5개의 요인이 추출되었다. 제 1요인은 크기 요인, 제 2요인은 하반신높이, 제 3요인은 상반신길이, 제 4요인은 어깨크기, 제 5요인은 엉덩이길이로 나타났다. 둘째, 설계변수 활용을 위한 가슴둘레 지수치를 이용한 요인분석 결과, 제 1요인은 하반신형태, 제 2요인은 배부위형태, 제 3요인은 상반신굵기로 나타났다. 셋째, 설계 세로비율 설정을 위해 키 지수치를 이용한 요인분석 결과, 제 1요인은 어깨형태, 제 2요인은 어깨크기, 제 3요인은 팔길이, 제 4요인은 밑위길이, 제 5요인은 상반신길이로 나타났다. 넷째, 직접측정치 항목의 인자점수에 의한 군집분석결과 총 3개의 유형이 도출되었다. 유형 1은 가장 마르고 하반신이 길며 상반신은 짧고 어깨가 넓은 체형으로 나타났고 유형 2는 가장 비만하고 하반신과 엉덩이길이 및 팔길이가 짧은 체형으로, 유형 3은 둘레는 중간정도며 하반신은 짧으나 엉덩이길이는 길고 어깨가 좁은 체형으로 요약되었다. 다섯째, 가슴둘레 지수치 인자점수에 의한 군집분석결과, 유형 1은 하반신이 굵으나 가장 마른 체형으로 나타났고 유형 2는 상반신 굵기는 보통이나 하반신이 굵고 배가 돌출된 체형으로, 유형 3은 가장 상반신이 굵으나 하반신은 상대적으로 가늘고 배돌출은 중간정도로 요약되었다. 여섯째, 키 지수치 인자점수에 의한 군집분석결과, 유형 1은 상반신과 팔이 길며 어깨가 좁고 처진 체형으로 나타났고 유형2는 상반신과 팔길이가 짧으며 밑위길이가 긴 체형으로 요약되었다. 유형 3은 어깨가 넓고 솟은 어깨로 상반신과 팔길이가 길고 밑위길이가 짧은 체형으로, 유형 4는 상반신 길이와 팔길이, 밑위길이가 긴 체형으로 요약되었다. 이상의 결과는 의복 패턴의 맞춤형 자동설계를 위한 패턴변형요소의 표준화와 패턴변형 범위설정의 기초자료로 제공되어 높은 맞음새가 요구되는 기능성 의류 설계의 자동화에 기여할 수 있을 것이다. 주제어 40대 남성 체형, 체형변형요소, 체형분류 Abstract Recently, there has been a growing interest in 'men in their forties' who have ample financial resources and have emerged as main consumers in fashion market. The functional clothes products targeting the men in their forties - who experience rapid changes in body type characterized by the increasing obesity and pot belly - require high fitness and functional design and therefore require the pattern design based on the characteristic elements of body type. In this situation, this study was intended to present the modification scope of pattern design by classifying the body type of the 'men in their forties' into different categories based on the characteristics of each body type. For that, the characteristics of body type in the 'men in their forties', which would affect the pattern design, were analyzed to identify the elements of pattern modification, and furthermore, the cluster analysis was conducted based on the characteristics of body type. The subject of this study was 435 men aged between 40 and 49(data obtained through direct measurement of the 6th size Korea). The analysis was conducted for 42 items of direct measurements, 33 index value items for height and chest circumference, and 4 flatness items of circumference. From the analysis and cluster analysis based on aforesaid items, the following conclusion was drawn: First, 5 elements were identified from the element analysis of direct measurement items. The first element was the size element. The second element was the height element of the lower half of body. The third element was the length element of upper half of body. The fourth element was the shoulder size element, and the fifth element was the hip length element. Second, the element analysis was conducted using the chest circumference index value for application of design variables. As a result, the first element was the shape of lower half of body. The second element was the shape of abdomen area, and the third element was the upper body thick element. Third, the element analysis was conducted using the height index value for setting the vertical ratio of design. Resultantly, the first element was the shape of shoulder. The second element was the shoulder size. The third element was the arm length. The fourth element was the crotch length, and the fifth element was the length of the upper half of body. Fourth, a total of 3 types were identified from cluster analysis based on element scores of direct measurement items. Type 1 was found to be the body type which was the most slender with long lower half of body, short upper half of body and broad shoulder. Type 2 was the body type which was the most obese with short lower half of body, short hip length and arm length. Type 3 was the body type with intermediate circumference, short lower half of body, long hip length, and narrow shoulder. Fifth, based on the cluster analysis based on element scores for chest circumference index value, Type 1 was the body type with thick lower half of body but was found to be the most slender body type. Type 2 had moderate degree of upper body thick but was the body type with thick lower half of body and protruded belly. Type 3 was the body type which upper body was the most thick but was found to have relatively thin lower half of body and moderately protruded belly. Sixth, based on the cluster analysis based on element scores for height index value, Type 1 was the body type with long upper half of body and arms, narrow and drooping shoulders. Type 2 was the body type with short upper half of body and arm and long crotch length. Type 3 was the body type with broad and rising shoulder, long upper half of body and arm, and short crotch length. Type 4 was the body type with long upper half of body, long arm, and long crotch length. The results above provide basic data for standardizing the pattern modification elements and defining the pattern modification scope for customized automated design of clothes patterns, thereby contributing to the automation of functional clothes design that requires high fitness. Key words Body shape of men in their forties, body shape transformational elements, classification of body type |
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